top of page
carpenters_installing_a_new_doors from MidJourney.jpeg

INTERIOR DOOR PROJECT RESOURCES

"We've Decided to Replace Our Doors. Now What?"

We understand door installation projects can be confusing, whether you're replacing one door or fifteen.  That's why our services are comprehensive from measurements to installation. But for those who like having a broader understanding of their home improvement projects, or with a DIY bent, we created this page.  With our decades of experience in door manufacturing, sales, and installation, we're happy to share our knowledge.  When you feel you're ready, or if you need additional assistance, reach out to us and let's get started!

THE BASICS OF DOORS & DOOR REPLACEMENT

6120376732777435356_edited.jpg

Door Parts & Their Names (0:56)

Don't skip this step! Misidentifying door parts, which happens more often than you'd think, can lead to confusion and frustration when working with door professionals. This quick video will give you an understanding of the basics so you can confidently communicate with door experts and ensure a smooth door selection and installation process. 

Door Swing:  Left vs. Right (1:38)

Interior doors are based, almost exclusively, on an Inswing model.  That means, when determining swing, you stand in the doorway on the side of the door that makes the door swing *away from you.*  With that orientation in mind, this video will demonstrate Left vs. right.

Door Jamb Depth

Understanding door jamb depth is crucial when it comes to installing a new door. The jamb depth is the measurement of the depth of the door frame, and it should be 1/16" wider than the thickness of your wall. This is because the jamb and casing actually cover the openings to the inside of your wall, giving a finished appearance and hiding the 2x4's.   In the picture, below, the door casings have been removed so only the jamb is visible.

​

The standard jamb depth for modern homes is 4-9/16", based on a 3-1/2" 2x4 in the wall plus 1/2" drywall on both sides, equaling 4-1/2". It's important to note that older homes, especially those with plaster walls, may have thicker walls because framing lumber used to be thicker. Conversely, some closet walls that are non-load bearing may have thinner walls, due to the use of 2x3 lumber to save money.

 

If you're planning to purchase prehung doors (frames included), it's important to take into consideration the different jamb depths in your home. Make sure to measure the jamb depth of each door opening before purchasing a new door and frame. By understanding the jamb depth, you can ensure a proper fit and a nice finished appearance. 

 

Jamb Depth Pic.jpeg

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

WHAT IS A DOOR FRAME?

In the door parts video, you saw the hinge jamb, latch jamb, and the header jamb.  Combined, those three jambs make up the door frame that surrounds the door.  The frame *does not include* the casing.  The casing is simply the decorative mouldings that are nailed to the jambs and your drywall to finish the doors nicely. The casing serves the second purpose of protecting the jambs and drywall from damage.

FINISHED OPENING VS. ROUGH OPENING

The finished opening is the air space between the door jambs.  It's where the door slab, itself, is installed.  The rough opening is the size of the hole in your wall if the door, frame, and casing were all removed to expose the wood framing.

WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SLAB DOORS AND PREHUNG DOORS?

A door slab is just the door, itself.  A prehung door includes the door and comes as a unit with the new frame and hinges already attached to it.

HOW TO DECIDE BETWEEN GETTING SLAB OR PREHUNG REPLACEMENTS?

Reasons to replace the slab (door only):
Only the doors, themselves, are damaged or beat up.  The frames are fine.
You simply want a new door style, but your frames are okay.

Reasons to replace the frame, too (a prehung door):

​The door hinges are pulling out of the jamb.

The jamb has settled and is now out of square or loose, causing the door to sag and/or rub.

The jambs are damaged or fairly beat up.

SHOULD I BUY DOOR SLABS WITH PRE-BORED (DRILLED) DOOR KNOB HOLES?

Probably not.  Shockingly, there is no single industry standard for door knob location on a door.  Each factory has their own preferred placement location. That means If you buy a pre-bored door, it may not line up with the existing latch hole in your current door jamb.  Your door knob won't latch or lock, as a result.  Thus, it's best to let the door installer drill the door knob hole so it lines up exactly with your existing latch hole, guaranteeing your door will function as it should.

SHOULD WE GET NEW DECORATIVE CASINGS OR KEEP THE OLD ONES?

When purchasing prehung doors, it's important to note that new casings will also be required. The old casings have to be removed to replace the frame, and because old trim is often brittle, they get damaged in the process. As a standard practice, the casings are replaced. The cost of the casings themselves is typically extra, but their installation is generally included in the door installation charges. 

​

If you're opting for new door slabs only, you can leave the existing casings in place, assuming they're in good condition.  But you have the option to upgrade and replace the casings, as well. Sometimes the existing casings are worn or damaged, or the style is outdated and doesn't match the new door style.  In these situations, you can choose new casings, but they will come with an additional cost for installation and materials.

WHAT SHOULD I KNOW ABOUT PAINTING THE DOORS?

When it comes to painting interior doors, it's important to note that it is not typically included as part of the door installation charges. Instead, you can consider the following options for painting your interior doors:  

  1. Some door manufacturers offer painting as an option. This can be convenient, but it is often the most expensive choice and one we typically do not recommend, especially for slab only replacement. Special order doors will have to be transported from the factory to distribution centers, and then to the individual stores. Doors are also moved around a lot on the jobsite during the drilling and machining processes for the hinges and knobs. Collectively, that much handling can lead to small dings or scuffs in the finish which are difficult to repair to factory original.  None of this is an issue if the painting is done afterward, instead.  

  2. Have us paint the doors during the installation process.  

  3. Paint the doors yourself, or hire an independent professional painter, after they are installed.  Doing it yourself can be the most cost-effective choice, but it requires time and effort, and it's important to have the right tools and experience to achieve an acceptable finish.  

In conclusion, understanding the options for painting the interior doors, as well as the pros and cons, can help you decide the best approach and budget accordingly. It's important to consider the cost, the level of finish desired, and the convenience of having someone else do the work.  

CHOOSING DOOR KNOBS & HINGES

As long as they are in good working order, you can re-use the hinges and knobs you currently have. If you do decide to buy new ones, it's important to ensure that the color and finish match. For hinges and knobs, the most popular color choices are brass, nickel, and black/antique bronze. You will also have the option to select from various finishes like polished, brushed, or satin.

 

When choosing interior knobs, pay attention to the labeling.  Interior knobs that lock will be labeled "bed/bath," and knobs without locks will be labeled "closet" or "passage."  Make sure you choose the right ones for your situation. The most common interior hinge choice is 3-1/2" with 5/8" radiused corners. Keep in mind that hollow doors require two hinges, while solid doors often require three or more to support the extra weight. This will ensure that your doors will be securely installed and operate smoothly. 

SHOULD WE GET HOLLOW OR SOLID CORE DOORS?

When it comes to choosing interior doors for your home, one of the main decisions you'll need to make is whether to choose hollow or solid core doors.  Hollow molded doors are the most common type found in retail stores.  They are made with a matching molded face and back, and have a cardboard core to help them keep their shape.  They are a cost-effective option and work well for most rooms in your home. 

​

On the other hand, solid core doors provide added privacy and sound insulation.  They are ideal for bathrooms, bedrooms, and home offices as they block more sound than hollow doors.  Additionally, they hold hinges better over time as longer hinge screws can be used to reach into the solid core material. 

​

Solid core doors can be made in a few different ways.  Box stores often sell a version with molded faces and backs, but with particleboard inside instead of cardboard.  Then there are doors with wood face veneers on MDF cores.  A step up from that are doors with "butcher block" type interior lumber cores with veneers on the face, back, and edges.  Lastly, there are old-school solid lumber doors.  These are less common in box stores, but can still be found through professional dealers who service contractors like us.  Hollow doors are usually the least expensive, with gradually higher upcharges applied for the various core types, culminating in the solid wood being the most expensive. 

​

When choosing between hollow or solid core doors, it's important to consider your budget, the level of privacy and sound insulation you need, and the overall aesthetic of your home. 

WHAT SHOULD I KNOW ABOUT DOOR SIZES?

It's important to keep in mind that door size is one of the factors that determines the price of the door.  If you've ever been to a historic home like The Betsy Ross House, you know doorways used to be much shorter because people were shorter.  In fact, prior to the 1990's, homes were built with doors of significantly different heights, even in the same house.  In recent years, builders have tried to standardize door heights, but the implementation has been uneven, at best.   Be careful not to assume that all the doors in your home are "standard" height.  Today, common factory widths for interior doors are 18", 24", 28", 30", 32", and 36" for single hinged doors.  Wider openings can be 48", 60", 72", and 96".  The current standard height is 80", though you can occasionally find some 78" doors, with limited availability.

​

***Not all door styles are available in all sizes,*** and factories may charge a premium for making custom sizes.  For these reasons, it's a good idea to take preliminary measurements of the doors in your home before you start browsing through door catalogs.  Doing this early in the planning stage will help you budget more accurately for your project.  Of course, DIY measurements are not a substitute for professionally taken measurements when it comes time to finalize your door order.  But as long as you're fairly competent with a tape measure, you don't have to start with that step to budget accurately. 

​

Door Width:
Measure the width of the existing door slab, then add about 1/4" to get the estimated width opening.  For example:  your slab is 31-3/4" + 1/4" = 32" estimated opening.  You can safely shop for a 32" wide door.  

​

Door Height:
Measure from the *floor* to the top of the door slab.  Add 1/8" to get the estimated opening height.  Though there can be unusual exceptions, in most cases no more than 1/2" should be trimmed from a door height on-site.  So choose the closest door height offered with that in mind.  

 

Once you have these measurements, use the "Width x Height" industry format to communicate those sizes to the door professionals you encounter.  And don't forget your jamb depths if you're shopping for prehung doors.

TIPS FOR DOOR SHOPPING

When it comes to shopping for interior doors, there are a few things to keep in mind.  The first thing to consider is whether you like any of the doors that the store stocks.  These doors are typically quite popular and many people are very satisfied with them.  They are also the most economical option for door replacement.  If the style works for you but the sizes don't, speak to the store door specialist.  They can consult the custom size options in their computers and let you know if your sizes are available through special order, albeit at an upcharge. 

​

If you don't like the stock selections, we recommend taking the time to browse through the catalogs linked below.  We chose these specific catalogs because they are the largest interior door manufacturers and have the broadest selections.  As you consider your options, think about what your personal home style is now, what you want it to be in the future, and which doors best reflect your home's personality and architecture.  Once you've narrowed your preferences to two or three doors, take screenshots or save them to Pinterest so you can show us or the retail door specialists what you have in mind.  That, along with brand and model information, will make it faster to locate them in store computers and to find variations available from other brands, too.  **It's important to have back-up choices since all door styles are not available in all sizes or configurations.** Taking these steps before going to the store will save you time, energy and frustration. 

​

Once you've settled on a door style or two, and have measurements, you're ready to begin the actual pricing phase of the process.   It's now time to go shopping! 

 

To give you a head start, several Interior Door Catalogs are below.  (The Dapper Doer does not benefit in any way from sharing these links; we do so as a courtesy only.) 

 
   Jeld-Wen Hollow & Particleboard core doors (Home Depot) 

   Jeld-Wen Wood & Glass doors (Home Depot) 
   Masonite Hollow & Particleboard core doors (Lowe's) 
   Simpson solid lumber doors (Pro-dealer through The Dapper Doer) 

COST GUIDANCE

1. If you plan on purchasing doors that are special order hollow models, you can usually expect to pay anywhere from 2x to 10x over the store's stock hollow door prices. 
2. Special order solid particleboard core molded doors or MDF core veneered doors can range from $200 - $500, on average, per door, in the common sizes, not including installation.  Odd sizes will be a great deal more.
3. "Butcher block core" or solid lumber doors, special ordered through a pro-dealer, typically run $250-$1000 per door, not including installation.  
4. Solid door installation often requires an upcharge because the doors can weigh up to 100 lbs each and a helper is needed.

5. Custom-made solid wood doors can be significantly more expensive, with prices ranging from $500 to $5000 or more depending on the materials, design, and level of craftsmanship. 

6. Additionally, don't forget to factor in the cost of hardware, such as door knobs and hinges, or any necessary casings or other mouldings when budgeting for your door replacement project. 

WE'RE HERE TO HELP

Remember, The Dapper Doer is always here to help with any questions or concerns you may have during the process, from selecting the right door style to arranging for our professional installation services.  We're dedicated to making your interior door replacement project as seamless and stress-free as possible.  Dial 856-252-9521 and Get It Done!

bottom of page